Culinary luxury at 24 St Georges

Where: 24-25 St Georges Road, Kemp Town Village, Brighton

Cost: £63.15 – 3 courses and a bottle of wine (not including my date)

Twenty Four St George’s is about 15 minutes away from Brighton town centre and set in the gloriously quirky Kemptown. 24’s modern décor, capable staff and ambient atmosphere sets the stage for a night to remember.

Sophie and I went here for our second anniversary, which was a complete delight and gained me at least 500 brownie points with my lady.

British chefs, Dean Heselden and Jamie Everton-Jones, have worked extremely hard to cultivate beautifully crafted dishes that wow the palate and the eyes. Much like the French Michelin starred restaurants, dining at 24 is not just about eating but savouring and adoring food. You take the time to truly appreciate what’s in front of you both for the flavours and the presentation.

24’s has a prolific wine list with by the glass options. It also has a range of menus including a very reasonably priced a la carte, a menu du jour and a tasting menu (this must be booked beforehand and eaten by all diners).

I stuck with the a la carte and began with the intriguingly named pig’s pantry – a smoky and mouth-watering ballotine of pig’s jowl on crumbled black pudding with poached apple and roasted root vegetables. What’s not to like? Every flavour and texture worked perfectly. The soft meatiness of the pork, the sweetness of the apple and the crispy peppery black pudding was a sign of more culinary joy to come.

Before my main course of venison (I was clearly in a meaty mood that day), I enjoyed a remis en bouche of mojito sorbet. I’m not sure if it will be to everyone’s taste but I loved it. The crisp, sharp, sub-zero blast sets you up perfectly for the next course.

Imagine microscopic people donning citrusy boots and dancing a merry jig on your taste buds.

The venison dish was nothing short of spectacular. The earthy and rich meat was cooked to perfection and so soft I could have used it as a pillow. The venison ragu was simply wonderful and exploded with flavour. I was worried it would all be too rich, even for a venison veteran like myself, but fear not.

It was served with a delicate and colourful beetroot & pear tortellini set atop a burnt celeriac pave. This was an extremely well thought out and beautifully presented treat. I was genuinely sad when I finished it all.

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Now, as you can imagine, I was pretty full and the heavy Australian Black Shiraz was not helping. However, when an incredibly polite and efficient waitress asks if you want to see the desert menu…you can’t help but have a peak.

As my waistline cried I delved into the unusual sounding Lady Grey. This stood out amongst the others puds for three reasons:

  1. The name reminded me of my favourite painting The Execution of Lady Jane Grey.
  2. It had a ginger panna cotta, which to me sounded like culinary genius and I wondered if it would end up in my canon of fabulous puddings, perhaps even topping the lavender crème brulee I had in Paris.
  3. What does walnut ice cream taste like?

The lady grey cake was moist and probably too hearty for my current state (only myself to blame) and I’m not a huge poached rhubarb fan (again nothing to do with the quality of the dish) but the show was truly stolen by that spicy, creamy ginger panna cotta and fascinating ice cream. Of course it all came together delightfully in a hot yet cold, sweet yet sharp crescendo that put me in a glorious food stupor all the way home.

Twenty Four St Georges is one of my favourite fine dining restaurants and with the plethora of bold combinations to excite the taste buds, I hope you can all see why. This is a treat well worth the cash.

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Images by 24 St Georges

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